On this page, you will find information about the following:


Separation Anxiety

House Breaking/Crate Training

As a person interested in adopting any breed of dog, you should conduct your own research (as the breeders have stated throughout this website). The contents on this page are not an all inclusive summary of information that is available to those interested in adopting an AKK. Please be smart about pursuing the adoption of an AKK (or any breed of dog for that matter).

The information on this page have been placed here to give you portions of the breeder’s opinions as to how they have handled certain situations. The breeder’s are not experts on house breaking or any other kind of training; however, they do have over 30 years experience in raising, housebreaking and training their animals.

The below link will take you to a good article. Please take the time to read:





The breeder’s at Alakkawa Kennels HIGHLY recommend that you (as a new AKK owner) socialize, socialize and then do some more socializing 'throughout the life' of your AKK. The breeder's also recommend you introduce your new family member to at least 100 people by the time the puppy is 4-months-old and continue repetitive socialization throughout the life of your AKK to introduce to him/her to new people.  If you do not have time to socialize any breed of dog, then please realize this breed particularly is not the breed for you. This breed "MUST" be socialized. If a new owners does not take the time to socialize their AKK, they are asking for disheartening situations when guests comes to visit, when the owner takes the dog on walks/hikes to parks/in the neighborhood, etc.

While you are waiting on that 4-month mark to pass, you can easily contact your vet and ask your vet if you can bring your AKK in to the office to simply sit and allow people to approach your AKK. You can also take your AKK to your local pet store, but PLEASE do not let your AKK walk on the floor; either carry your puppy or place the puppy in the buggy (after you spray it down with Lysol). You simply do not know if the people who have brought their dogs into your vet's office, local pet store, or local dog park have obtained updated shots on their animals or not.

Once your AKK is completely updated on his/her shots, take him/her to dog parks and your local pet to walk around (on leash of course) to meet other pet owners and other animals. Again, the breeder’s do not recommend taking your AKK to any dog park before he/she is fully inoculated which according to most vet schedules is at 4-months of age.

Well-socialized dogs are more likely to have well-socialized puppies. Pups often mirror their mothers calm or fearful attitude toward people; this is a normal part of their socialization. But you (as a new AKK owner) can play a vital role, too, by socializing, socializing, socializing your AKK and having others talk, pet, rub the ears and neck and play with your puppy to help him/her develop good “people skills.”

Puppies are usually completely weaned at 6-7 weeks-old; however, they are still learning important skills as their mother gradually leaves them for longer periods of time. Ideally, puppies should stay with their litter mates (or other “role-model” dogs) for at least 12 weeks. However, the breeders allow Alakkawa puppies to leave their home at 8-weeks of age since most new owners prefer not to wait 3 weeks before picking up his/her puppy. Eight weeks old is a safe age to allow a puppy to leave his/her mother and siblings.

Puppies separated from their litter mates too early often fail to develop appropriate “social skills,” such as learning how to send and receive signals; what an "inhibited bite" (acceptable mouthing pressure) means, how far to go with play-wrestling, and so forth. Play is important for puppies because it increases their physical coordination, social skills, and learning limits. By interacting with their mother and litter mates, puppies explore the ranking process (“who is in charge”) and also learn “how to be a dog.”

Skills not acquired during the first 8-weeks may be lost forever. While these stages are important and fairly consistent, a dog's mind remains receptive to new experiences and lessons well beyond puppyhood. Most dogs are still puppies, in mind and body, through the first two years of life.

Denver and Valentino graduated from Basic Training. Sorry the pic is so bad...It was taken with my cell phone.



The Alaskan Klee Kai was bred as a companion dog and as such, with breeds that were or are bred to be companion dogs, they exhibit separation anxiety. Separation Anxiety is a (sometimes) common trait within the Alaskan Klee Kai breed. They are (sometimes) very clingy little critters; you may not be able to leave the room without them following right behind you, so be careful where you step. They may cry, whine or bark when you leave or even when you just put on your shoes to walk around the house.

The Alaskan Klee Kai has been known to exhibit traits of separation anxiety and it is up the responsible owner to properly train those traits out out of a new puppy.

Anyone wishing to adopt an Alaskan Klee Kai - the breeders highly recommend the following:

1. If you work full time and do not have the capability to go home at lunch to take your Alaskan Klee Kai for a walk, then you may truly want to consider another breed.

2. If you travel a great deal and are forced to leave your Alaskan Klee Kai with a pet sitter or in a kennel with other breeds of dogs at your vets office, then you will truly want to consider another breed.

3. If you do not have the time needed to devote to training your Alaskan Klee Kai , then you will truly want to consider another breed.

4. The Alaskan Klee Kai breed is a very demanding breed and if you do not have the time needed to devote to training an Alaskan Klee Kai, thenb you will truly want to consider another breed.

5. Please remember the Alaskan Klee Kai is NOT for everyone.

Below is a link to some techniques to help train with separation anxiety should you witness your Alaskan Klee Kai exhibiting separation anxiety.



There are many other websites you can research about separation anxiety within a dog. The breeders encourage to read, read, and then do more reading about this undesirable trait.



Some people call it a crate and others call it kennel training. Regardless, it is best to raise a puppy in a crate/kennel. To save time, the breeder's will use the word “crate.”

The breeder’s highly recommend to teach your puppy about crate training. Your puppy will born in a crate, spend time in a crate, and the breeder's truly would appreciate your continuation of raising your puppy in a crate.

Crate training does more than just stop the animal from relieving him/herself in the house. Crate training allows the puppy to sleep in their clean den since AKK are den/pack oriented animals. The puppy learns that when the urge to urinate or defecate occurs, he/she can hold it. Just because the pup feels like he/she needs to relieve him/herself, the pup learns that he/she may not necessarily have to while they are in a crate. This is thought to be the main reason why puppies that have gone through crate training have fewer mistakes later on.

Young puppies at 8 or 9-weeks-old can often last up to 7 or 8 hours. However, the breeder's do not recommend leaving your AKK unattended in a crate for that long. If you are going to be away for that amount of time, it is a good idea to have a neighbor come over to let your puppy out to relieve themselves.

Puppies are like babies in that they need to be potty trained too. Most people do not recognize an important advantage of crate training. If a puppy screams when you place him/her inside the crate and you either let him/her out right away, because you cannot tolerate the screaming, then you are giving in to him/her and you are allowing him/her to form a behavior that can be hard to break in the future.

Be sure you buy the right size crate. You will want one which has the floor space that provides enough room for the puppy to lie down. Crates are useful throughout your pet's life so purchase one that he/she can use from puppyhood to adulthood.

Using too large of a crate can often cause long term problems. The puppy will go to one corner of the crate and urinate or defecate. After a while, he/she will then run through it tracking it all over the crate. If this is allowed to continue, the instincts about not soiling his/her bed or lying in the mess will be forgotten and the puppy will soon be doing it every day when placed in the crate. Because of this behavior that has been allowed to take place; a house training method has now turned into a behavioral problem as the puppy's newly-formed hygienic habits becomes his/her way of life. Therefore, if you are going to buy a larger crate than needed, it is a good idea to use a crate with a dividing panel. This way as the puppy grows; you can move the panel to a location that is necessary to fit the size of your now adult AKK.

During housebreaking, whenever the puppy is inside the home but cannot be watched, he/she should be placed in the crate. The last thing that should be done before placing the puppy in the crate is take him/her outside to his/her favorite spot in the yard. The first thing you should do when you take the dog out of the crate is make another trip outside to the same spot. While the puppy is still young, it is not a good idea to place food or water inside the crate; just a blanket and maybe a chew toy to occupy his/her time. An overnight stay in their doggie hotel should definitely be considered crate time. As your faith in the puppy grows, leave him/her out for longer periods of time.

If you have the time to conduct constant supervision by spending all the time necessary with the puppy in order to housebreak him/her, then this method will work well for those who live and work in their homes, a retired person, or those who are in situations where the owners are always with the animal. Whenever you see the puppy doing his/her "pre-potty pattern" hustle him/her outside. It is important that the dog is watched at all times and that no mistakes are allowed to occur. This method has less room for error, as there is nothing like a crate to restrict the animal's urges, nor is there a place for him/her to relieve him/herself such as on your floor. When he/she is taken outside, watch the puppy closely and as soon as all goes as planned, he/she should be praised and then brought back inside immediately. You want your puppy to understand that the purpose for going outside is to go to the bathroom and not in your house. Do not start playing; make it a trip for a reason.

One of the key issues in housebreaking is: If you do not catch your puppy doing it, then do not punish him/her for it. If you find a mess that was left when you were not there, clean it up and forget it.

Discipline will not help at this point because the deed is done and unless you catch the puppy in the act, he/she will have no idea what the scolding is for. Your puppy has urinated and defecated hundreds of times before he/she met you. Mom or the breeder always cleaned it up. Nobody made a fuss before and the pup will not put the punishment, regardless of its form, together with something he/she has done without incident numerous times before, especially if the deed was done over 30 seconds ago. Unless something was really fun (and a repetitious act like going to the bathroom is not), they are not thinking about what they did in the past. They are thinking about what they can do in the future. At this point in a puppy's life, their memory is very poor, and as they grow they will learn and understand that going outside means relieving their bladder.

If a puppy has an accident in your home, it was your fault that the puppy went potty in the house and not the pups. If you had been watching the puppy, you would have noticed the puppy suddenly walking or running around in circles with his/her nose down smelling for the perfect spot to "go." It is just as consistent as the taxi cab driver behind you honking immediately when the light changes. The puppy will show the same behavior every time. It may vary a little from pup to pup, but they always show their own "pre-potty pattern" before the act.

The same should be said as to your first reaction when you actually catch him/her in the act of urinating or defecating. It is your fault you were not watching for or paying attention to the signals. Do not get mad. Quickly, but calmly pick them up and without raising your voice sternly say, “No.” Carry them outside. It will help to push their tail down while you are carrying them as this will often help them to stop urinating or defecating any more.

They are going to be excited when you get them outside, but stay there with them a while and if they finish the job, reward them with simple praise like, “Good Dog.” The breeder’s will do their part at Alakkawa Kennels to help your new AKK understand that going outside is meant to relieve him/herself; however, please know the breeder's can only do so much. The breeder's will begin the process of housebreaking at 6-weeks-old; however, he/she will not fully house broken when he/she travels to his/her new home. It will take work on your part as well.

If you already have an Alaskan Klee Kai and wish to join the Alaskan Klee Kai Training group with others who are owners, breeders, showers, please be sure you have a photograph of yourself with your AKK  before sending a request to join here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/380893105355396/

The materials (written content and photographs) on this web site are the property of ALAKKAWA KENNELS.

Reproduction or distribution of information and/or photographs whether or not for profit, without the express written authorization from the author of the content of this website and photographer of photographs on this website, is a violation of Federal Law, and may be subject to Civil remedies, including injunctions, impounding of infringing articles, statutory and actual damages, profits and attorney's fees, and criminal penalties including fines and imprisonment. Authorized usage will be considered for students and non-profit organizations.