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Puppy Stages
The apple doesn't fall far from the tree, especially for dogs. The fact is, well-socialized dogs are more likely to have well-socialized puppies. Pups often mirror their mothers' calm or fearful attitude toward people; this is a normal part of their socialization. But you can play a vital role, too, by petting, talking, and playing with your puppy to help him/her develop good "people skills."
Puppies are usually weaned at six to seven weeks, but are still learning important skills as their mother gradually leaves them for longer periods of time. Ideally, puppies should stay with their littermates (or other "role-model" dogs) for at least 12 weeks.
Puppies separated from their littermates too early often fail to develop appropriate "social skills," such as learning how to send and receive signals, what an "inhibited bite" (acceptable mouthing pressure) means, how far to go in play-wrestling, and so forth. Play is important for puppies because it increases their physical coordination, social skills, and learning limits. By interacting with their mother and littermates, puppies explore the ranking process ("who's in charge") and also learn "how to be a dog."
Skills not acquired during the first eight weeks may be lost forever. While these stages are important and fairly consistent, a dog's mind remains receptive to new experiences and lessons well beyond puppyhood. Most dogs are still puppies, in mind and body, through the first two years of life.
Here are general guidelines for a puppies' stages of development
Birth to 2 weeks:
A puppy is most influenced by his mother.
Their senses of touch and taste are present at birth.
2 to 4 weeks:
A puppy is most influenced by his mother and littermates.
Their eyes open, teeth begin to come in, and senses of hearing and smell develop.
A puppy begins to stand, walk a little, wag tail, and bark.
And, by the fourth or fifth week, their eyesight is well-developed.
3 to 12 weeks: Socialization Period
During this period, a puppy needs opportunities to meet other dogs and people.
3 to 5 weeks: A puppy becomes aware of his surroundings, companions (both canine and human), and relationships, including play.
4 to 6 weeks: A puppy is most influenced by littermates and is learning about being a dog.
4 to 12 weeks: A puppy remains influenced by littermates and is also influenced by people. A puppy learns to play, develops social skills, learns the inhibited bite, explores social structure/ranking, and improves physical coordination.
5 to 7 weeks: A puppy develops curiosity and explores new experiences. A puppyneeds positive "people" experiences during this time.
A puppy begins teething (and associated chewing).
7 to 9 weeks: A puppy is refining his physical skills and coordination, and can begin to be housetrained. Puppy has full use of senses.
8 to 10 weeks: A puppy experiences real fear involving normal objects and experiences; puppy needs positive training during this time.
9 to 12 weeks: A puppy is refining reactions, developing social skills with littermates (appropriate interactions), and exploring the environment and objects. A puppy begins to focus on people; this is a good time to begin training.
3 to 6 Months:
A puppy is most influenced by "playmates," which may now include those of other species.
A puppy begins to see and use ranking (dominance and submission) within the household (the puppy's "pack"), including humans.
4 months: A puppy experiences another fear stage.
6 to 18 Months: A puppy is most influenced by human and dog "pack" members.
7 to 9 months: A puppy goes through a second chewing phase, part of exploring territory.
12 months: A puppy is now an adult.
A puppy increases exploration of dominance, including challenging humans.
If not spayed or neutered, a puppy experiences the beginnings of sexual behavior.
Housebreaking Your New AKK:
Crate/Kennel Training: Puppies are like babies in that they need to be potty trained too. Most people do not recognize an important advantage of crate training. If a puppy screams when you place him/her inside the crate, you are giving in to them and you are allowing them to form a behavior that can be hard to break in the future. Crate training does more than just stop the animal from messing in the house. Crate training allows the puppy to sleep in their clean den since AKK's are den oriented. The puppy learns that when the urge to urinate or defecate occurs, he/she can hold it. Just because the pup feels like he/she needs to relieve him/herself, the pup learns that he/she does not have to. This is thought to be the main reason why puppies that have gone through crate training have fewer mistakes later on. Young puppies, at 8 or 9-weeks-oldcan often last up to 7 or 8 hours. However, I do not recommend leaving them unattended in a crate for that long. If you are going to be away for that amount of time, it is a good idea to have a neighbor come over to let your puppy out to relieve themselves.
Be sure you buy the right size cage. You will want one which has the floor space that provides enough room for the puppy to lie down. Crates are useful throughout an AKK's life so purchase one that he/she can use from puppyhood to adulthood. Using too large of a crate can often cause long term problems. The puppy will go to one corner of the cage and urinate or defecate. After a while, he/she will then run through it tracking it all over the crate. If this is allowed to continue, the instincts about not soiling his/her bed or lying in the mess will be forgotten and the puppy will soon be doing it every day when placed in the crate. Because of this behavior that has been allowed to take place; a house training method has now turned into a behavioral problem as the puppy’s newly-formed hygienic habits becomes his/her way of life. Therefore, if you are going to buy a larger crate than needed, it is a good idea to use a crate with a dividing panel. This way as the puppy grows, you can move the panel to a location that is necessary to fit the size of your now adult AKK.
During housebreaking, whenever the puppy is inside the home but cannot be watched, he/she should be placed in the crate. The last thing that should be done before placing the puppy in the crate is take him/her outside to his/her favorite spot in the yard. The first thing you should do when you take the animal out of the crate, is make another trip outside to the same spot. While the puppy is still young, it is not a good idea to place food or water inside the crate; just a blanket and maybe a chew toy to occupy his/her time. An overnight stay in their doggie hotel should definitely be considered crate time. As your faith in the puppy grows, leave him/her out for longer periods of time.
If you have the time to conduct constant supervision by spending all the time necessary with the puppy in order to housebreak him/her, then this method will work well for those who live and work in their homes, a retired person, or those who are in situations where the owners are always with the animal. Whenever you see the puppy doing his/her "pre-potty pattern" hustle him/her outside. It is important that the dog is watched at all times and that no mistakes are allowed to occur. This method has less room for error, as there is nothing like a crate to restrict the animal's urges, nor is there a place for him/her to relieve him/herself such as on your floor. When he/she is taken outside, watch the puppy closely and as soon as all goes as planned, he/she should be praised and then brought back inside immediately. You want your puppy to understand that the purpose for going outside is to go to the bathroom and not in your house. Do not start playing; make it a trip for a reason.
One of the key issues in housebreaking is: If you do not catch your puppy doing it, then do not punish him/her for it! I do not care what someone else may tell you or what you read, if you find a mess that was left when you were not there, clean it up and forget it.
Discipline will not help at this point because the deed is done and unless you catch the puppy in the act, he/she will have no idea what the scolding is for. Your puppy has urinated and defecated hundreds of times before he/she met you. Mom or the breeder always cleaned it up. Nobody made a fuss before and the pup will not put the punishment, regardless of its form, together with something he/she has done without incident numerous times before, especially if the deed was done over 30 seconds ago. Unless something was really fun (and a repetitious act like going to the bathroom is not), they are not thinking about what they did in the past. They are thinking about what they can do in the future. At this point in a puppy's life, their memory is very poor, and as they grow they will learn and understand that going outside means relieving their bladder.
If a puppy has an accident in your home, it was your fault that the puppy went potty in the house and not the pup's. If you had been watching the puppy, you would have noticed the puppy suddenly walking or running around in circles with his/her nose down smelling for the perfect spot to "go". It is just as consistent as the taxi cab driver behind you honking immediately when the light changes. The puppy will show the same behavior every time. It may vary a little from pup to pup but they always show their own "pre-potty pattern" before the act.
The same should be said as to your first reaction when you actually catch them in the act of urinating or defecating. It is your fault, you were not watching for or paying attention to the signals. Do not get mad. Quickly, but calmly pick them up and without raising your voice sternly say "No." Carry them outside. It will help to push their tail down while you are carrying them as this will often help them to stop urinating or defecating any more. Trust me, I have done this a thousand times with puppies.
They are going to be excited when you get them outside, but stay there with them awhile and if they finish the job, reward them with simple praise like "Good Dog."
Copyright © 2007 ALAKKAWA KENNELS
ALL PHOTOS ARE COPYRIGHT PROTECTED.
DO NOT REPRODUCE ANY PHOTOS, WRITING or CONTENT
WITHOUT WRITTEN CONSENT
from Mary Anne Hinkle
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