Puppy Food for your new AKK

Ask the breeder, pet store or shelter what kind of food is currently being fed to your pup. Stay with that for about 10 days. Then, if you choose another brand of puppy food, make the shift gradually. Arriving at a new home can be traumatic for a puppy, and this can affect diet. Encourage a pup, if it is too distracted to eat during those first few days. Either microwave the dry food on medium heat, just enough to create an enticing aroma (don't burn your puppy's tongue) or add moist food to dry kibble. But don't allow this practice to become a habit; even little puppies are capable of training their owners. Veterinary nutritionists encourage a diet of primarily dry food. High-quality puppy foods are researched and balanced, and they do not require supplements. Some breeders are now recommending against puppy food for giant breeds such as Great Danes, Newfoundlands and Irish Wolfhounds. Instead they are suggesting a diet solely of adult food. Their goal is to avoid such muscular/skeletal abnormalities as puppy carpal syndrome (accelerated bone growth) and hip dysplacia. Adult food, which is generally not as high-energy a meal as puppy chow, may temper growth. Several recent studies indicate that giant breeds overfed on puppy food are more likely to suffer hip dysplacia. Puppy food is certainly not the only potential cause of this ailment, which also has a certain genetic component. Dogs fed exclusively adult chow may suffer from slowed or stunted growth, if they don't receive the right amount of calcium and phosphorus. According to the American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), too little calcium (less than 1 percent) may slow or stunt growth, and too much calcium (more than 2.5 percent) may advance the possibility of hip dysplacia or puppy carpal syndrome. The problem is that few products indicate the percent of calcium. Consumers should look for a fat profile from 10 to 15 percent and a protein profile between 22 and 25 percent. For giant breeds, the closer to 10 percent for fat and 22 percent for protein, the better. Most veterinary nutritionists now recommend a conservative puppy chow that isn't like jet fuel for larger breeds. Then, at four to six months of age -- sooner than many other breeds -- make the transition to the adult food. Also remember that most puppies don't have appetite control. Most dogs remain on puppy food until they are 10 months old to just over a year old. If you notice that your dog is beginning to "fill out" a bit too much, it's probably time to make the gradual shift to adult food. Consult your vet for the exact timing, which is dependent on the breed, amount of exercise the dog is getting and its individual metabolism. Dogs do not crave variety as people do. Still, owners have been known to offer table scraps. At least make the scraps healthy tidbits like pieces of fresh or uncooked carrots or tomatoes. And don't offer those scraps at the dining room table unless you want to train your dog to beg.

The Importance of Training your new AKK

Dog owners may truly believe they are diligent because they seek proper veterinary care. And they may truly love their companions, offering lots of praise and affection. However, millions of well-cared-for and lavished pets still find themselves playing the lottery for life at a local shelter because these owners forgot about one thing -- dogs require training. Just as children don't understand the rules of how to live in society unless they are taught, puppies also require direction. Puppies, if not trained properly will get into trouble and a puppy not trained is an owner, not trained. Early socialization is important, and for many breeds it's imperative. Legendary canine researcher John Paul Scott determined in the late 1950s that puppies are most impressionable between weeks five and 16 after birth. This window is called the critical period of socialization, and all pups should be exposed to all kinds of people, including rabbis on roller skates, women with nose-rings and screaming children. Without this early exposure, the dog may react fearfully, aggressively, or at the very least, confused, when exposed later in life. Some experts theorize that dogs who become fearful of thunder do so because there were no thunderstorms occurring when the puppy went through its critical period of socialization. Puppy training classes provide an opportunity to socialize with all kinds of people and dogs. Additionally and most importantly, the handler learns how to better communicate with the puppy. A good dog trainer doesn't really teach the dog as much as he or she instructs the owner. When the class is a positive experience, the handler intensifies the human/canine bond. Additionally, a good trainer can address common questions about housebreaking, excessive barking and all those puppy problems. Classes once began when pups were actually young adults, 10 months to one year old. Trainers struggled to correct inappropriate behavior, rather than mold appropriate responses. It was thought that young puppies didn't have long enough attention spans to attend classes at a young age. Research by Scott and others proved that thinking wrong. In the 1960s canine author and researcher Milo Pearsall coined the term "puppy kindergarten," and dogs began going to school as early as four to six months. Veterinarians advised that dogs start no earlier, since puppies younger than four months are particularly susceptible to viruses because they have not completed their series of vaccinations. Veterinarians urgently stressed the issue when the Parvo virus was rampantly spreading and killing puppies in the late 1970s and early 1980s. Recently, trainers have started offering puppy pre-school; dogs begin the basics when they are eight to 11 weeks old. While there is an increased danger of contracting a canine virus, supporters of pre-school say that early positive socialization is worth any potential risk.

Collars and Leashes for your new AKK

Every dog must have a collar with an ID tag and proof of rabies vaccination -- it's the law. Collars are generally nylon or leather and may come in a reflective material that makes it easy to spot in the evening. Choose your dog's collar with its lifestyle in mind. A $50 elegant black-leather collar hand-embroidered with the dog's name isn't very practical for Diver Dan, the Newfoundland who swims daily laps. Puppies do grow out of their first collar, so pay attention. Don't let the dog choke on a collar that is too small. If you wish to order the above tag for your AKK follow this link: http://www.adventuresinbradyville.com/id8.html The basic collar is left on the dog at all times. There are also several kinds of working collars from which to choose: Training Collar This is sometimes referred to as a choke collar; however, if this chain-link collar is choking your dog, you're doing it all wrong. This collar may cause trachea damage if used incorrectly. Don't even attempt to use this collar with a pupster under 10 weeks of age. A training collar isn't used for romps in the park; it's used for training sessions, such as walks down the street as you teach the "heel" command. When you slide the loop through the collar, it should look like the letter "P" as you face your dog. Slip the chain over its head. One little secret to help you understand this collar: It's not the jolt of the snap that corrects your dog as much as the "ching-ching" sound the collar makes when it's on correctly. Also, the timing of the correction is crucial to its effectiveness. When introducing this collar -- or any kind of collar -- to a puppy, allow a sniff and a thorough inspection on the first try. On the second try, put it over the dog's head, offer praise and a treat, and then remove the collar. On the third try, do the same as the second time, but leave the collar on for about three minutes. By your fourth or fifth try, your dog won't be doing collar combat, as so many puppies do. If you combine the treat with the phrase, "Put on your necklace," the dog will learn it as a command and extend its neck, actually wanting you to slip on the collar. Pinch Collar It looks barbaric, but many trainers use this collar with success. The Germans developed it for dogs with strong necks or even stronger wills. When the dog bolts out of position, it feels a pinch and, in essence, corrects itself. This collar should not be used on puppies under 14 weeks, and should always be operated under a trainer's direction. Head Halter, Halti or Gentle Lead It looks like a muzzle, but it's not. It's a great tool for rambunctious, mouthy puppies and over-excited dogs that are determined to walk their owners. A nylon harness slips around the body, with a halter going around the head, similar to a horse's bridle. Although dogs often struggle if suddenly forced into this collar, overall it's the most humane working collar. If the dog pulls or lunges, its own momentum pulls its head down and its jaws shut. By design, this collar can't possibly exert pressure on a dog's neck. Leashes    Bottom line: a leash or lead allows you to control your puppy when it would rather be doing something else. Puppies should always be on a leash; they are unpredictable and can take off at a moment's notice, just like young children. Standard 6-foot Cotton, Leather or Nylon Leash Comfort in your hand and durability are the two most important factors. Your comfort will mean better walks for your dog. Extension or Flexi-leash While these leashes allow dogs to explore, these 16- to 26-foot leads aren't always practical for dogs that enjoy socializing, since the leashes can easily get tangled with those of nearby dogs. In fact, parks in some communities outlaw these leashes because they may make controlling a dog too difficult. Flexi-leashes are not practical when training a dog.

Other Necessary Supplies for your new AKK

Crates       Particularly for people with busy lifestyles, crates are a good idea for the owners and ultimately for the puppies, too. While some owners are hung up on the idea of keeping dogs caged, crates are extremely helpful, and many dogs actually enjoy the seclusion offered in their "den," "house," "room," or whatever euphemism you choose to call your pup's crate. However, don't depend on crates as puppy-sitters for extended lengths of time while you're at home. A crate should be slightly longer than the dog. For puppies, either purchase a small crate and plan to buy another when the dog grows larger, or purchase a large crate that will be just right when your pup matures. Also buy a crate divider that you can insert to adjust to your pup's current size. Some owners purchase plastic carrier-type crates. Most of these manufacturers don't offer dividers, so build your own. But think first. A makeshift cardboard divider will probably turn into puppy lunch. You can use a crate to help housebreak a pup. If a puppy is physically able to avoid it, it will rarely soil where it sleeps. However, puppies have limited control. It's best to do everything you can to discourage a dog from relieving itself in its crate. To train your pup, take it out when you know it will have to go, which is most likely after it has just woken up, after it has lapped up lots of water or about 30 minutes after eating. SEE THE "PUPPY STAGES" BUTTON FOR A FURTHER EXPLANATION ON HOUSE BREAKING YOUR AKK. Give the place a name. Say, "Go to your room," "Go to your condo," or whatever you want to call it, in an upbeat voice. Reinforce the pleasant experience by placing a treat in the crate as a surprise present. The crate should be a happy place; don't send your dog there for punishment. Puppies like to be part of the fun. Don't place the pup's crate in a far-off room and then play games with the kids in another part of the house. Your pup is bound to make a fuss. Always leave some water for your dog. Beds     For many very happy dogs, your bed is their bed. That's fine, but it's also a good idea for a dog to have its own place. Anything from an old soft sheet to a bean bag to an expensive plush doggy bed will do, as long as it's washable. What's more important to your dog is the bed's location. A bed that is situated in a secluded corner of the house away from all the action won't please any dog. Remember, your dog wants to be with you. Bowls    A stainless steel bowl is the most durable, and rubber rims on the bottom will prevent the dog from using it as a hockey puck. A ceramic bowl will rarely tip over, but if it cracks, bacteria may form. Dental care    Pet toothbrushes are specifically made for animals, although you can use a children's starter toothbrush. Most dogs don't like the minty taste of human toothpaste, but they may really enjoy liver- or chicken-flavored toothpaste. Nail Clippers    Use clippers especially made for pets for trimming the nails of adult pooches. For puppies, toenail clippers are less clumsy and easier to use. Toys    Toys fall into two categories: those that are a good idea and those that will do more harm than good. Don't use dad's old slippers or Janie's favorite stuffed Simba the Lion King as toys, if you don't want your dog chewing on dad's new slippers or Janie's other stuffed animals. Even toys specifically made for puppies can be too small to be used safely. If it's small enough to be swallowed by a pup, it might get swallowed. Beware of objects with rattles or balls inside, if your dog is a chewer. Ingesting such items may create stomach upset or worse. The best games involve tennis balls, Frisbees or any other object that your dog can retrieve. It teaches the dog to return to you. Hollow bones -- the kind purchased at a pet store, not from your pot roast at home -- are great for satisfying a dog's need to chew. Hard plastic and rubber objects can serve the same function. However, it's time to discard the toy if your dog succeeds in biting off pieces. Types of Brushes for your new AKK    No matter what your dog's coat happens to be -- unless you own a hairless breed, such as the Chinese Crested -- brushing is good for your dog's skin and coat. If you have a double-coated or long-coated dog, it's a way to catch at least some of the hair that would otherwise drop off on your sofa or carpeting. Brushing is also a means to display your undivided affection and attention. Most dogs like the sensation; some will close their eyes and relax into pure ecstasy. Even animals in wolf and feral dog packs groom each other to strengthen social cohesion. Brushing is just another way to intensify the bond with your companion. Bristle Brush Can be used for dogs with any kind of coat. It's especially effective at removing dead hair. Flea Comb A fine-toothed comb used to catch those little hoppin' buggers. It's also a decent implement for smoothing coats of dogs with short or mid-length hair. Hand-Stripping Knife Wiry coats should be hand-stripped every three to four months. Pluck dead hairs by holding your thumb against the knife and stripping in the direction of the growth. Rake Brush Used to pull dead undercoat from densely coated dogs. This should be used gently. Rubber Brush Especially effective for loosening surface hair and removing dead hair from smooth-coated dogs. Scissors Even dogs that don't require professional grooming sometimes need excess hair removed. Extra hair around the ears, bushy hair around the tail and superfluous feathering at the legs can be trimmed.   Slicker Brush  Designed to remove tangles and prevent matting in dense and/or short coats.